Harley Davidson Parts Info

Ignition System

 TIMING, SPARK PLUG and POINTS need to be set correctly for the engine to operate at peak performance.

 '63 to '81 carts have a scribed line on the points plate and a notch on  the side of the housing to designate the timing marks. Align these  notches to return the timing to the original factory position.

Severe  arcing of the points, or no spark, is a indication of a faulty  condenser. The points MUST be gaped to specs. Please refer to the  settings below.

POINT GAP     '63 to '81 .022-.024 in.
SPARK PLUG  '63 to '70 ----- .040
                          '71 to '81 ----- .025 

What Year Is My Harley

 To find out the year of Harley Davidson golf carts, you will need to know the VIN. This  number is located on a metal plate that is affixed to the frame directly  above the driver's rear wheel. It's important to know the correct year so you can get the correct Harley Davidson parts

If your cart was made in the '60s,  the first two numbers designate the year and the next letter(s)  designate the model as in this example: 64DC800025 This VIN would  indicate that the cart was made in '64 and is a model DC If your cart  was made in the '70s or '80s, it will follow this format: 3B12234 H4  This VIN indicates it was made by Harley Davidson in '74 (H4) and is a  model D (3B). 1982 was the LAST year that Harley Davidson produced a  golf cart. 

MANUFACTURE & YEAR The letter H (made in the  '70s) or J (made in the '80s) indicates the cart was manufactured by  Harley Davidson The letter C (made in the '80s) or D (made in the '90s)  designates Columbia as the manufacture. The last number indicates the  year of the decade. 

H7='77 

J1='81 

C4='84 

GAS MODELS

'63 to '81 

3B=D 

5B=DC 

7C=D4 

3K=CLASSIC

 

'82 to '83 

3B=D3 

5K=DX4

 

'84 to '85 

3B=G3 5

K=G4 

7K=U4

 

ELECTRIC CARTS 

'63 to '76 

4B=DE 

6B=DEC 

8C=DE4 

'77 to '83 

4B=DE3 

6K=DEX4 

'76 to '78 

8D=DE40 

'79 to '82 

8D=MGIV 


Fuel System

 The "Fuel Delivery System" for carts with a METAL TANK consists of a short fuel line coming from the carb to the Fuel Filter, then another short fuel line to the gas tank.
For carts with a PLASTIC TANK, a short fuel line from the carb connects to the Fuel Filter. A long fuel line connects the Fuel Filter to the Hose Fitting (which is pressed into the top of the tank). A short fuel line is attached to the Hose fitting with a Fuel Strainer Valve pressed into the end of the hose. 

Wet Clutch

 The '63 to '81 Drive Clutch, also known as the Primary Drive is a "Wet  Clutch" and needs to be filled with 12 ounces of 90 weight gear oil.  When replacing oil, use part # 36369-77 to replace all the seals for  smooth operation. The felt seal is trimmed to fit and installed DRY.  Tighten shaft nut to 75-86 ft-lbs and secure with "tabs" on lock washer.  Tighten the (3) acorn nuts (clutch cover) to 54-66 in-lbs.

IMPORTANT:  The distance between the floating flange and edge of bearing is .040 to  .060 in. Add/remove shims needed for required clearance. Shims are  located at the outer side of the bearing. The only part that should be  located inside of the bearing is the thick washer. 

Engine

 Harley Davidson used a 2 cycle, loop-scavenged single cylinder engine  with a reed valve intake. The engine is cooled by air and displaces  245cc. It was produced from 1963 to 1982* (*1982 cart was made with  Columbia parts.) A high quality, certified 2 cycle GOLF CART OIL (TCW-3)  is mixed with low octane gas. 1-1/2 ounces of 2 cycle oil to 1 gallon  of low octane gas (85 to 1) is the correct ratio.
 

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS FOR '63 to '81
STANDARD PISTON DIAMETER 2.739 in.
PISTON FIT IN CYLINDER .006-.007 in. (loose)
PISTON RING END GAP .007-.017 in.
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE .002-.004 in.

ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING:

ENGINE TURNS BUT: Cart Won't Start/Hard Starting or Lack of Power

ENGINE DOESN'T TURN: See "Charging System" category

The first task to do is a compression check The compression should  be approximately 80 psi in FORWARD and 85 psi in REVERSE. A higher  compression, 10-15 psi over, would suggest either a blocked exhaust  port, build-up of carbon on the cylinder head or a BLOCKED MUFFLER. If  the compression is high, disconnect the muffler to see if the  compression returns to normal. If the compression is low, in either  direction, a broken ring(s) is the problem. Remove the carbon from the  piston top to get its size. If the compression is fine, check for a  sealed crankcase The crankcase is sealed by the CRANKCASE GASKET, the  OIL SEALS and the REED PLATE: BAD GASKET would be indicated by  accumulation of dirt between the crankcase halves. BAD OIL SEALS would  be evident by an accumulation of dirt either behind the stationary  flange (the flange on the crankshaft) or around the fan shroud. BAD REED  PLATE would be suspect if there is a back flush of gas in the air  cleaner Crankcase ok? Check for spark NO SPARK or WEAK SPARK...Make sure  points and plug are gaped correctly (see ENGINE category) If there is a  sign of arcing OR a lot of spark at the POINTS, replace the condenser.  If the spark plug is fouled, replace it. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT  AUTOMOTIVE PARTS WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE, NAMELY  POINTS (the points spring tension, if too much, can wear down the cam  lobe and if not enough, will cause the points to bounce). Adjust TIMING  to factory setting. With the points cover removed, you will see a scribe  line on the points plate. Line this mark up with the punch mark on the  side of the housing. Good spark but no gas entering cylinder?? The FUEL  DIAPHRAGM (located in carb - '63 to '81) works from the engine vacuum. It  is important that the crankcase is sealed and the compression is good.  Rebuild the carb with a rebuild kit and flush all the passages out.  Inspect the REED PLATE ASSEMBLY. The pedals should not be missing or  bent. A slight gap is normal. 

Charging System

 12 volts is supplied from the BATTERY which flows through the CIRCUIT BREAKER, IGNITION SWITCH, MICRO SWITCH, through the SOLENOID then to the FORWARD/REVERSE SWITCH and STARTER/GENERATOR. If the starter/generator fails to turn over when the gas pedal is pushed, perform the following tests.

With the ignition switch ON and the gas pedal DEPRESSED, check for 12 VOLTS at the small terminal of the solenoid that is not GROUNDED. If voltage is PRESENT, jumper the two LARGE terminals  on the solenoid. If motor turns, the solenoid is defective. If motor  doesn't turn, either the Forward/Reverse Switch or the Starter/Generator  needs testing. If NO voltage is present, check the ignition switch and  the micro switch for voltage.

TESTING STARTER of STARTER/GENERATOR

1) Remove all wires from starter/generator.

2) Connect 12 volt positive cable to A-1 terminal.

3) Connect 12 volt negative supply to F-1 terminal.

4) Use a jumper wire to connect A-2 and F-2 terminals.

TESTING GENERATOR of STARTER/GENERATOR
1) Disconnect GREEN wire (DF) from starter/generator.

2) Using a jumper, connect the DF terminal to A1 terminal.

3) Place volt meter on battery.

4) Operate engine and note battery reading.

5) Reading should indicate a rising voltage.

6) If voltage rises, check the voltage regulator for proper operation.