TIMING, SPARK PLUG and POINTS need to be set correctly for the engine to operate at peak performance.
'63 to '81 carts have a scribed line on the points plate and a notch on the side of the housing to designate the timing marks. Align these notches to return the timing to the original factory position.
Severe arcing of the points, or no spark, is a indication of a faulty condenser. The points MUST be gaped to specs. Please refer to the settings below.
POINT GAP '63 to '81 .022-.024 in.
SPARK PLUG '63 to '70 ----- .040
'71 to '81 ----- .025
To find out the year of Harley Davidson golf carts, you will need to know the VIN. This number is located on a metal plate that is affixed to the frame directly above the driver's rear wheel. It's important to know the correct year so you can get the correct Harley Davidson parts
If your cart was made in the '60s, the first two numbers designate the year and the next letter(s) designate the model as in this example: 64DC800025 This VIN would indicate that the cart was made in '64 and is a model DC If your cart was made in the '70s or '80s, it will follow this format: 3B12234 H4 This VIN indicates it was made by Harley Davidson in '74 (H4) and is a model D (3B). 1982 was the LAST year that Harley Davidson produced a golf cart.
MANUFACTURE & YEAR The letter H (made in the '70s) or J (made in the '80s) indicates the cart was manufactured by Harley Davidson The letter C (made in the '80s) or D (made in the '90s) designates Columbia as the manufacture. The last number indicates the year of the decade.
'63 to '81
'82 to '83
'84 to '85
'63 to '76
'77 to '83
'76 to '78
'79 to '82
The "Fuel Delivery System" for carts with a METAL TANK consists of a short fuel line coming from the carb to the Fuel Filter, then another short fuel line to the gas tank.
For carts with a PLASTIC TANK, a short fuel line from the carb connects to the Fuel Filter. A long fuel line connects the Fuel Filter to the Hose Fitting (which is pressed into the top of the tank). A short fuel line is attached to the Hose fitting with a Fuel Strainer Valve pressed into the end of the hose.
The '63 to '81 Drive Clutch, also known as the Primary Drive is a "Wet Clutch" and needs to be filled with 12 ounces of 90 weight gear oil. When replacing oil, use part # 36369-77 to replace all the seals for smooth operation. The felt seal is trimmed to fit and installed DRY. Tighten shaft nut to 75-86 ft-lbs and secure with "tabs" on lock washer. Tighten the (3) acorn nuts (clutch cover) to 54-66 in-lbs.
IMPORTANT: The distance between the floating flange and edge of bearing is .040 to .060 in. Add/remove shims needed for required clearance. Shims are located at the outer side of the bearing. The only part that should be located inside of the bearing is the thick washer.
Harley Davidson used a 2 cycle, loop-scavenged single cylinder engine with a reed valve intake. The engine is cooled by air and displaces 245cc. It was produced from 1963 to 1981. A high quality, certified 2 cycle GOLF CART OIL (TCW-3) is mixed with low octane gas. 1-1/2 ounces of 2 cycle oil to 1 gallon of low octane gas (85 to 1) is the correct ratio.
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS FOR '63 to '81
STANDARD PISTON DIAMETER 2.739 in.
PISTON FIT IN CYLINDER .006-.007 in. (loose)
PISTON RING END GAP .007-.017 in.
PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE .002-.004 in.
ENGINE TURNS BUT: Cart Won't Start/Hard Starting or Lack of Power
ENGINE DOESN'T TURN: See "Charging System" category
The first task to do is a compression check The compression should be approximately 80 psi in FORWARD and 85 psi in REVERSE. A higher compression, 10-15 psi over, would suggest either a blocked exhaust port, build-up of carbon on the cylinder head or a BLOCKED MUFFLER. If the compression is high, disconnect the muffler to see if the compression returns to normal. If the compression is low, in either direction, a broken ring(s) is the problem. Remove the carbon from the piston top to get its size. If the compression is fine, check for a sealed crankcase The crankcase is sealed by the CRANKCASE GASKET, the OIL SEALS and the REED PLATE: BAD GASKET would be indicated by accumulation of dirt between the crankcase halves. BAD OIL SEALS would be evident by an accumulation of dirt either behind the stationary flange (the flange on the crankshaft) or around the fan shroud. BAD REED PLATE would be suspect if there is a back flush of gas in the air cleaner Crankcase ok? Check for spark NO SPARK or WEAK SPARK...Make sure points and plug are gaped correctly (see ENGINE category) If there is a sign of arcing OR a lot of spark at the POINTS, replace the condenser. If the spark plug is fouled, replace it. IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT AUTOMOTIVE PARTS WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE, NAMELY POINTS (the points spring tension, if too much, can wear down the cam lobe and if not enough, will cause the points to bounce). Adjust TIMING to factory setting. With the points cover removed, you will see a scribe line on the points plate. Line this mark up with the punch mark on the side of the housing. Good spark but no gas entering cylinder?? The FUEL DIAPHRAGM (located in carb - '63 to '81) works from the engine vacuum. It is important that the crankcase is sealed and the compression is good. Rebuild the carb with a rebuild kit and flush all the passages out. Inspect the REED PLATE ASSEMBLY. The pedals should not be missing or bent. A slight gap is normal.
12 volts is supplied from the BATTERY which flows through the CIRCUIT BREAKER, IGNITION SWITCH, MICRO SWITCH, through the SOLENOID then to the FORWARD/REVERSE SWITCH and STARTER/GENERATOR. If the starter/generator fails to turn over when the gas pedal is pushed, perform the following tests.
With the ignition switch ON and the gas pedal DEPRESSED, check for 12 VOLTS at the small terminal of the solenoid that is not GROUNDED. If voltage is PRESENT, jumper the two LARGE terminals on the solenoid. If motor turns, the solenoid is defective. If motor doesn't turn, either the Forward/Reverse Switch or the Starter/Generator needs testing. If NO voltage is present, check the ignition switch and the micro switch for voltage.
TESTING STARTER of STARTER/GENERATOR
1) Remove all wires from starter/generator.
2) Connect 12 volt positive cable to A-1 terminal.
3) Connect 12 volt negative supply to F-1 terminal.
4) Use a jumper wire to connect A-2 and F-2 terminals.
TESTING GENERATOR of STARTER/GENERATOR
1) Disconnect GREEN wire (DF) from starter/generator.
2) Using a jumper, connect the DF terminal to A1 terminal.
3) Place volt meter on battery.
4) Operate engine and note battery reading.
5) Reading should indicate a rising voltage.
6) If voltage rises, check the voltage regulator for proper operation.